I made these jigs to set the angles on my grinder platform. They have a flat edge that sits on the platform, and two points to register on the grinder wheel.
Making them is pretty straightforward. Below shows the geometry layout. I drew it on paper as illustration, but for the jigs I made, I actually drew the geometry directly on a the wood and cut it out.
I start with a 8″ diameter (4″ radius) to represent the grinder wheel. A straight line through its center marks “level”. Measure the desired angle (40 deg in this picture) from this line at the point where it meets the circle – this is the flat bit that rests on the platform. Next, you want 2 points to rest on the wheel (these are circled in the above picture). These two points and the flat for the platform are the only important bits. The rest can be cut however you like. I like a big hole for my thumb to hold the jig on the platform. It is also useful for hanging the up jigs (on some pegs I’ve attached to the leg of my grinder stand).
The picture below shows the cutout jig sitting on the drawing, so you can see how matches.
I made a couple of jigs to reset my Vari-Grind to various angles for my different gouges.
It is just a dowel and a block of scrap wood. I flattened the top of the dowel so the knob will tighten snugly. There is a flat face in the block of wood where the dowel is glued in: this face registerswith the corresponding part of the Vari-Grind. The other important bit is the angle to register against the leg. I setup my Vari-Grind and then cut that angle to match.
Here’s another thing I use to hang my air nozzle on.
It’s just a scrap of wood with rare-earth magnets epoxied to the bottom so it will stick anywhere when I want the air nozzle within convenient reach.
Really handy when working the inside of a hollow-form and I’m using the air all the time.
Pretty simple, but it’s been helpful. I added a big screw eye to a piece of scrap wood and attached it to the end of my lathe (using holes that were already there for attaching extensions etc). I put it on the headstock end because otherwise the hose was just underfoot too much.
This is my turning tool rack. Some PVC pipe screwed to a board, attached to the wall over a narrow shelf. The important bit (as I discovered with a previous attempt) is the gap between the bottom of the PVC pipes and the shelf, to let out any chips that get in the pipes.
The “business end” of the tool is up and exposed so I can find the tool I’m looking for. The rack is mounted high enough that I’m not going to accidentially stab myself reaching for a tool.
Cut and bend sections of a used bandsaw blade to make stands for holding your work off the table while finish is drying.
I use 2″ hook-and-loop sanding disks. I added a strip of sticky-backed velcro to the edge of a shelf to hold the disks between sandings. They stay convenient, clean, and organized.
I use small, cheap die grinders from Harbor Freight for inertia sanding. They are small and cost about $10 when on sale. They may not be great die grinders, but the bearings are good and they have a 1/4″ collet that accepts my 2″ hook-and-loop pads.
Inertia sanding is when you hold a sanding disk to the wood while it’s spinning on the lathe. The turning wood spins the sanding disk so you don’t get straight scratches. It’s less aggressive than power-sanding, and can produce a better finish than plain flat sandpaper.