I made a rack to sit on the headstock and hold my chuck keys, allen wrenches, and a few other tools I want to have nearby.
It’s simple: A chunk of scrap wood, with a lip routed out to fit the headstock, and 3 rare-earth magnets to hold it on. Looking at the pictures, it appears I cut out for the headstock and glued on another piece for the top. Whatever works.
The magnets aren’t enough to hold up the weight of the chuck allen keys, but adding the lip over the top of the headstock does the trick.
I drilled holes for the wrenches and things so that the shorter ones are in the middle, and don’t interfere with the spindle handwheel.
I discovered that 3″ PVC pipe couplers are the same size as 4″ dust collector hose.
I cut a length of 3″ pipe, added a coupler and am using that rather than the large hood I had been using.
I think the pipe collects sanding dust better. Also, since the pipe is longer than the hood is, the stand can be farther back and out of the way. I was always bumping it with the banjo and had to walk around the lathe to move it around.
I added a pipe clamp where the two sections slide together to do the height adjustment, so it will stay at the correct height but can rotate. Now I can just swing the pipe out of the way without having to move the stand around.
I use a vacuum chuck system from Bob Leonard, the Frugal Vacuum Chuck guy. I can totally recommend his gear.
I have chucks of various sizes, and needed a way to store them. They just didn’t fit very well in the drawer I was using, so I made a simple rack. I mounted the rack (just a shelf with slots) near the ceiling so they sit out of the way and don’t collect shavings.
I make goblets, and use a very shallow (1/16″ to 1/8″) tenon to align the stem to the bowl and base.
To drill these tenons, I use a 1/4″ straight router bit. These make flat-bottomed holes, which is important when the hole is only 1/16″ deep. A regular twist drill makes a pointy hole, and a brad-point bit has a point that will go too deep (and through the bottom of the goblet’s base).
I drill these on the lathe, with a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock. The quill on my lathe (Powermatic 3520B) has 16 TPI (threads per inch) pitch. That means that one revolution of the handle will move the quill 1/16″. I use this fact to measure the hole depth – advance the quill till the bit just starts to cut, then one revolution more is 1/16″ deep. Two gives me 1/8″, or 1 1/2 turns would be 3/32″, etc.
I got a new spindle gouge, and discovered that it bumps on the huge “pocket” on the end of the Wolverine arm.
I’ve never really completely liked the huge V-pocket in that arm anyway.
I found a scrap of plastic (I think it’s Delrin, but it really doesn’t matter). I sanded an angle on one end and used a countersink bit to drill a pocket.
Screwed that to the back of the arm with sheet-metal screws.
And now my gouges don’t bump the arm. Also, I think this pocket works much better than the original.
One screw goes thru the tube, and I ground off the other one (the lower one in these photos) so it won’t interfere with the existing pocket. I don’t plan to use that pocket, but I do loan my grinder to the club’s symposium and having the “expected” setup is probably useful for demonstrators.
Wolverine makes that pocket huge like that so you can drop the butt end of a tool handle in there. Same reason the square bar comes so excessively long (I cut about a foot off of mine). All the Wolverine advertisements show skews and roughing gouges being sharpened like that. I think it’s a terrible idea – way too easy to have a gouge dig into the wheel and cause alot of damage (to the operator, the grinder wheel, and the gouge). Also, every time you sharpen, the tool gets shorter, which changes that angle. Just get a platform and make some angle-setting jigs. Much safer and pretty easy.
I made a center finder thing to mark the center of a chucked piece. I often have a bowl or hollow form that has a tenon for my chuck, but no center mark. If I want to reverse mount it, like in a jam chuck or vacuum chuck, it’s really helpful to know where the center is.
This tool fits right down into the spindle threads, and I can tap the knob to mark the center.
I took a scrap piece of wood and carefully turned a cylinder to just match the threads. I then drilled a hole to match some scrap rod I had laying around. I sharpened the rod to a point and epoxied a knob onto the end.
A client knocked over a goblet while dusting, and the stem broke. So I repaired it.
There was no way to put the stem back together, so I had to make an entirely new stem, matching the original. Fortunately I had a bit of Ebony sitting around, as that was the original stem material.
I usually attach my goblet stems with a small 1/4″ tenon. The bowl has a tenon that fits into a hole in the top of the stem, and the bottom of the stem has a tenon that fits into a hole in the base.
So the next step was to cut the broken stem. I made a jam chuck that just barely fit the base, and held it in with a few dots of hot-glue.
Then I cut off the broken bit of stem (making sure to remove all the glue) and re-drilled the tenon hole.
I attached the goblet burl to my vacuum chuck, using the broken stem to align it.
The vacuum chuck doesn’t hold very well on such a small piece (and also the burl had some holes that made it leaky). So I used plastic wrap and tape to secure it. Then it was again cut off the broken stem, remove any glue, and reform the tenon.
I then used the lathe to align and clamp the three pieces together. I use epoxy to glue the pieces together.