I got a new spindle gouge, and discovered that it bumps on the huge “pocket” on the end of the Wolverine arm.
I’ve never really completely liked the huge V-pocket in that arm anyway.
I found a scrap of plastic (I think it’s Delrin, but it really doesn’t matter). I sanded an angle on one end and used a countersink bit to drill a pocket.
Screwed that to the back of the arm with sheet-metal screws.
And now my gouges don’t bump the arm. Also, I think this pocket works much better than the original.
One screw goes thru the tube, and I ground off the other one (the lower one in these photos) so it won’t interfere with the existing pocket. I don’t plan to use that pocket, but I do loan my grinder to the club’s symposium and having the “expected” setup is probably useful for demonstrators.
Wolverine makes that pocket huge like that so you can drop the butt end of a tool handle in there. Same reason the square bar comes so excessively long (I cut about a foot off of mine). All the Wolverine advertisements show skews and roughing gouges being sharpened like that. I think it’s a terrible idea – way too easy to have a gouge dig into the wheel and cause alot of damage (to the operator, the grinder wheel, and the gouge). Also, every time you sharpen, the tool gets shorter, which changes that angle. Just get a platform and make some angle-setting jigs. Much safer and pretty easy.
I made a center finder thing to mark the center of a chucked piece. I often have a bowl or hollow form that has a tenon for my chuck, but no center mark. If I want to reverse mount it, like in a jam chuck or vacuum chuck, it’s really helpful to know where the center is.
This tool fits right down into the spindle threads, and I can tap the knob to mark the center.
I took a scrap piece of wood and carefully turned a cylinder to just match the threads. I then drilled a hole to match some scrap rod I had laying around. I sharpened the rod to a point and epoxied a knob onto the end.
My Powermatic 3520B (and Jet 1642) are lacking when it comes to locking or indexing the headstock. I don’t do indexed work, but do want to lock the headstock. Usually, I want this when I’m sanding a section or otherwise want the piece held still while I work.
The provided option is a set screw that you have to wind into the indexing holes. Probably good for holding the shaft in place, but not easy to lock and unlock.
So I took an old drill bit of appropriate size and epoxied it into a handle I had laying around.
I tapered the end slightly, and now it fits into the indexing holes. And I can lock the headstock in place quickly and easily.
A simple thing cut out of thin plywood. A point on one end and a couple saw-cuts on the other to mark optimal/minimum size for a tenon and dovetail.
The half-circle lets me get this in place when I have the tailstock engaged.
The picture above shows dovetail sizing, which is marked wide enough that the jaws will go into the recess. Below, you can see that the tenon mark matches the bottom of the jaws (widest part of the tenon).
I use these guides to either mark where to cut a tenon/dovetail, or to check (and adjust) the size after I’ve cut one by eye.
I made these jigs to set the angles on my grinder platform. They have a flat edge that sits on the platform, and two points to register on the grinder wheel.
Making them is pretty straightforward. Below shows the geometry layout. I drew it on paper as illustration, but for the jigs I made, I actually drew the geometry directly on a the wood and cut it out.
I start with a 8″ diameter (4″ radius) to represent the grinder wheel. A straight line through its center marks “level”. Measure the desired angle (40 deg in this picture) from this line at the point where it meets the circle – this is the flat bit that rests on the platform. Next, you want 2 points to rest on the wheel (these are circled in the above picture). These two points and the flat for the platform are the only important bits. The rest can be cut however you like. I like a big hole for my thumb to hold the jig on the platform. It is also useful for hanging the up jigs (on some pegs I’ve attached to the leg of my grinder stand).
The picture below shows the cutout jig sitting on the drawing, so you can see how matches.
I made a couple of jigs to reset my Vari-Grind to various angles for my different gouges.
It is just a dowel and a block of scrap wood. I flattened the top of the dowel so the knob will tighten snugly. There is a flat face in the block of wood where the dowel is glued in: this face registerswith the corresponding part of the Vari-Grind. The other important bit is the angle to register against the leg. I setup my Vari-Grind and then cut that angle to match.