My current setup for sharpening gouges has the same offset and same Wolverine jig setting for bowl and spindle gouges. The only difference is the V-arm offset. So I made a multi-position arm, and can keep it setup without needing to adjust the arm for different gouges.
Got a length of 3/4″ square stock from the hardware store. Found a scrap of wood and cut a V in the bottom (with a router bit) and screwed it to the square stock. Then measured and drilled 3 holes (using a regular twist drill at an angle).
The longest offset is for my bowl gouges. The middle hole does two things – spindle gouge and the back-bevel on the bowl gouges. And the shortest offset is for back-bevel on a spindle gouge.
So I don’t have to re-adjust the arm. It also allows me to keep platforms at various angles setup on the other wheels of my grinders, with less adjusting of those too.
These are not marking gauges – that is, I don’t use them to mark the blank. Instead I use them to check my marks. So first, I guess at the right diameter and mark the blank. Then I check it with the gauge and re-mark. Usually that’s all it takes, but a third adjustment will get me there in any case.
I have never liked holding metal calipers against spinning wood. These seem safer, easy to use, and I don’t have to remember or look up numbers to set the calipers.
I cut guides for each of my chuck jaws from scrap 1/4″ plywood. There is a point on one end and a flat on the other. From the point to one corner of the flat is the right size to start a tenon, to the other corner is for a recess.
Getting the measurements right took a bit of trial-and-error. The measurement I wanted was where I start cutting the tenon or recess. The diameter where you start cutting ends up on the inside of the jaws when you’re done.
So to get the measurements, I removed two jaw segments from the chuck and placed them in their perfect-round diameter (where the gap between the segments is about 3/16″). That makes a half-circle and I can measure between the jaws, near the bottom.
For the recess, the starting point can not be any smaller than with the jaws fully closed, otherwise you won’t get the jaws into the recess. That turns out to be about the right diameter when you expand the jaws.
I made a guide for one of my jaws, and tested it out by making a tenon. Then I tweaked the guide to get it just right. I used that “tweak” to help me know how best to measure for the other jaws. I feel this is important, as the guides have to match my style and how I use them.
I marked the measurements I ended up with on the guide, so I can re-make it if it breaks. They are painted blue so I can see them amongst the chips when I drop them.
The guides also have a small slot cut on the side to indicate the maximum chuck jaw depth.
I discovered that 3″ PVC pipe couplers are the same size as 4″ dust collector hose.
I cut a length of 3″ pipe, added a coupler and am using that rather than the large hood I had been using.
I think the pipe collects sanding dust better. Also, since the pipe is longer than the hood is, the stand can be farther back and out of the way. I was always bumping it with the banjo and had to walk around the lathe to move it around.
I added a pipe clamp to the stand where the two vertical sections slide together for height adjustment, so it will stay at the correct height but can rotate. Now I can just swing the pipe out of the way without having to move the stand around.
I got a new spindle gouge, and discovered that it bumps on the huge “pocket” on the end of the Wolverine arm.
I’ve never really completely liked the huge V-pocket in that arm anyway.
I found a scrap of plastic (I think it’s Delrin, but it really doesn’t matter). I sanded an angle on one end and used a countersink bit to drill a pocket.
Screwed that to the back of the arm with sheet-metal screws.
And now my gouges don’t bump the arm. Also, I think this pocket works much better than the original.
One screw goes thru the tube, and I ground off the other one (the lower one in these photos) so it won’t interfere with the existing pocket. I don’t plan to use that pocket, but I do loan my grinder to the club’s symposium and having the “expected” setup is probably useful for demonstrators.
Wolverine makes that pocket huge like that so you can drop the butt end of a tool handle in there. Same reason the square bar comes so excessively long (I cut about a foot off of mine). All the Wolverine advertisements show skews and roughing gouges being sharpened like that. I think it’s a terrible idea – way too easy to have a gouge dig into the wheel and cause alot of damage (to the operator, the grinder wheel, and the gouge). Also, every time you sharpen, the tool gets shorter, which changes that angle. Just get a platform and make some angle-setting jigs. Much safer and pretty easy.
I made a center finder thing to mark the center of a chucked piece. I often have a bowl or hollow form that has a tenon for my chuck, but no center mark. If I want to reverse mount it, like in a jam chuck or vacuum chuck, it’s really helpful to know where the center is.
This tool fits right down into the spindle threads, and I can tap the knob to mark the center.
I took a scrap piece of wood and carefully turned a cylinder to just match the threads. I then drilled a hole to match some scrap rod I had laying around. I sharpened the rod to a point and epoxied a knob onto the end.
My Powermatic 3520B (and Jet 1642) are lacking when it comes to locking or indexing the headstock. I don’t do indexed work, but do want to lock the headstock. Usually, I want this when I’m sanding a section or otherwise want the piece held still while I work.
The provided option is a set screw that you have to wind into the indexing holes. Probably good for holding the shaft in place, but not easy to lock and unlock.
So I took an old drill bit of appropriate size and epoxied it into a handle I had laying around.
I tapered the end slightly, and now it fits into the indexing holes. And I can lock the headstock in place quickly and easily.
A simple thing cut out of thin plywood. A point on one end and a couple saw-cuts on the other to mark optimal/minimum size for a tenon and dovetail.
The half-circle lets me get this in place when I have the tailstock engaged.
The picture above shows dovetail sizing, which is marked wide enough that the jaws will go into the recess. Below, you can see that the tenon mark matches the bottom of the jaws (widest part of the tenon).
I use these guides to either mark where to cut a tenon/dovetail, or to check (and adjust) the size after I’ve cut one by eye.
I made these jigs to set the angles on my grinder platform. They have a flat edge that sits on the platform, and two points to register on the grinder wheel.
Making them is pretty straightforward. Below shows the geometry layout. I drew it on paper as illustration, but for the jigs I made, I actually drew the geometry directly on the wood and cut it out.
I start with a 8″ diameter (4″ radius) to represent the grinder wheel. A straight line through its center marks “level”. Measure the desired angle (40 deg in this picture) from this line at the point where it meets the circle – this is the flat bit that rests on the platform. Next, you want 2 points to rest on the wheel (these are circled in the above picture). These two points and the flat for the platform are the only important bits. The rest can be cut however you like. I like a big hole for my thumb to hold the jig on the platform. It is also useful for hanging the up jigs (on some pegs I’ve attached to the leg of my grinder stand).
The picture below shows the cutout jig sitting on the drawing, so you can see how matches.
I made a couple of jigs to reset my Vari-Grind to various angles for my different gouges.
It is just a dowel and a block of scrap wood. I flattened the top of the dowel so the knob will tighten snugly. There is a flat face in the block of wood where the dowel is glued in: this face registerswith the corresponding part of the Vari-Grind. The other important bit is the angle to register against the leg. I setup my Vari-Grind and then cut that angle to match.