Pretty simple, but it’s been helpful. I added a big screw eye to a piece of scrap wood and attached it to the end of my lathe (using holes that were already there for attaching extensions etc). I put it on the headstock end because otherwise the hose was just underfoot too much.
Wolverine V-Arm Setting Jig
Tool Rack
This is my turning tool rack. Some PVC pipe screwed to a board, attached to the wall over a narrow shelf. The important bit (as I discovered with a previous attempt) is the gap between the bottom of the PVC pipes and the shelf, to let out any chips that get in the pipes.
The “business end” of the tool is up and exposed so I can find the tool I’m looking for. The rack is mounted high enough that I’m not going to accidentially stab myself reaching for a tool.
Finishing Stands
Cut and bend sections of a used bandsaw blade to make stands for holding your work off the table while finish is drying.
Sanding Disk Holder
I use 2″ hook-and-loop sanding disks. I added a strip of sticky-backed velcro to the edge of a shelf to hold the disks between sandings. They stay convenient, clean, and organized.
Cheap Inertia Sanders
I use small, cheap die grinders from Harbor Freight for inertia sanding. They are small and cost about $10 when on sale. They may not be great die grinders, but the bearings are good and they have a 1/4″ collet that accepts my 2″ hook-and-loop pads.
Inertia sanding is when you hold a sanding disk to the wood while it’s spinning on the lathe. The turning wood spins the sanding disk so you don’t get straight scratches. It’s less aggressive than power-sanding, and can produce a better finish than plain flat sandpaper.
Big Drive Center
Drive Center for Roughing Bowls
I made this big drive center that I sometimes use for the initial roughing out of bowls. A standard drive center just won’t work for larger pieces or wet wood.
I rough between centers when I want to reposition the blank to center the grain, avoid (or highlight) a defect, etc. Or for times when I don’t have a good surface for a screw chuck, or when the wood just won’t hold a screw for some reason.
I started with a 3″ faceplate and added 5 bolts. The faceplate had a center hole so it could be used as a screw chuck. So one bolt went in there, and 4 others around the outer holes. I sharpened the ends of the bolts to a point (chuck it in a drill and spin it against a bench grinder). The center point is a bit longer than the others, which helps with initial positioning and keep the thing where it should stay.
